This is a
simple list of indications and suggestions which
obviously may be expanded or reduced, adapting everything
to the particular needs of each group.
Portico di Ottavia
From this point it is easy to see how small the
space of the Ghetto is: three hectares. The experimental
wall, built at the expense of the Jewish community
and torn down in 1848, rose in the middle of the
current Via
di
Po di Ottavia to Piazza delle Cinque Scole to the
Tiber River (at the time without embankments, erected
in 1888). The first Jewish nucleus, coming from
Trastevere, was formed here in the 16th century.
The
following is to be noted: what remains of the Portico
di Ottavia (restored by the Emporer Augustus in
honor of his sister) among whose columns the church
of Sant'Angelo in Pescheria
was built in the year 200 circa, site of the forced
sermons during the Ghetto period. The name "in
Pescheria" refers
to the fish market, which flourished in this area
since ancient times. The wider
space in front of the portico is the place where,
the morning of October 16, 1943, the Nazis parked
the truck which was used to deport the Jews captured
during the raid. A memorial plaque recalls and admonishes
without words of revenge.
Walking
in the direction of the Via Arenula, to be seen
on the right is the Vicolo della Reginella, which
gives a good idea, together with that of Sant'Ambrogio,
of the little streets there before work was done
on changing the area. The block between the two
small streets, painted red, corresponds to the building
added to the Ghetto starting in 1825, under Leo
XII, through the intervention of the English Jewish
bankers, the Rothschilds, who made large loans to
the pontifical treasury.
From the Portico d'Ottavia to the Tiber River
The
church of San Gregorio in Divina Pietà, near
the Quattro Capi bridge.
This little church is dedicated to St. Gregory because
in the area were the houses of
the Anicii, a noble Roman family connected with
the birth of Pope Gregory the Great (590-604), defender
of the rights of the Jews. Put up on the façade,
in 1858, was a scroll which was first found in the
vicinity, in front of one of the gates of the wall
which is no longer there. On it was a verse written
in Hebrew and in Latin which cites Isaiah 65, 2-3:
"I held out my hands all day long to a rebellious
people, following their own devices; a people who
provoke me to my face continually".
The
bridge of the Quattro Capi (Four Heads) is also
called the "Pons ludaeorum" and connects
with the Tiber Island where, in the rooms of the
old Jewish Hospital, now utilized as a surgery and
first aid station (behind the church of San Bartolomeo),
there are two small rooms used as a Youth Synagogue
and very dear to the Roman Jews because they risked
their lives to come here and pray during the nine
terrible months of the Nazi occupation. Another
very sad memory is linked with the Fatebenefratelli
Hospital, where the almost forty wounded were brought
following the terrorist attack by members of the
PLO in 1982. A two-year-old child was killed in
that attack, and he is now remembered in a small
plaque on the left pillar in front of the façade
of the Synagogue.
Vicinity
In
the nearby Piazza Mattei (walking down Vicolo della
Reginella) is the famous Fountain of the Turtles.
The Matteis were among the Christian families whose
houses were near the Ghetto and who had the keys
to the main gates of the Ghetto which were closed
when the Ave Maria bells were rung and reopened
the next morning from the outside. Behind the Portico
d'Ottavia may be seen the apse of Santa Maria in
Campitelli: here during the period of the great
Nazi danger, the Jews often found fraternal refuge.
In 1990, the first Day of Judism? Hebrewism? was
solemnly celebrated, and the Commission of Italian
Bishops wants all Catholics to celebrate this day
on January 17th of each year.
House of Lorenzo Manili
Coming
from the Portico D'Ottavia towards Via Arenula,
you will find this building at the end of the street.
In 1468, the merchant Lorenzo Manili, wishing to
build something to beautify the city in that period
of the reawakening of the building trade in the
City of Rome, built his own house "ad forum
ludaeorum": in front of the Piazza degli Ebrei,
or Piazza Giudia, which later will be divided into
two by the Ghetto wall. The façade has several
bas-reliefs ornamenting it and a long inscription
on which it is written that Lorenzo Manili builds
his house on Piazza degli Ebrei.
In the Corner of the Manili House
The
small door of one of the most popular points of
the Ghetto in Rome: the pastry shop which produces
typical Jewish delicacies every day. Turning the
corner one sees a small temple (dedicated to Our
Lady of Mount Carmel, in 1759) at present badly
covered by rusty plates, but having exquisitely
beautiful lines. On the opposite side is the small
church of Santa Maria del Pianto, built around a
picture painted on the wall and connected to the
story of a miracle. It is one of as many as 16 churches
which rose here in what has always been the smallest
neighborhood of Rome. Still standing in the vicinity
are the Church of San Tommaso, of Santa Caterina
dei Funari, of San Stanislao dei Polacchi and that
which was built over the house of the family of
Sant'Ambrogio.
Opposite the Manili House
In
Piazza Giudia the beautiful fountain was built which
we now find between Santa Maria del Pianto and Palazzo
Cenci Bolognetti. The fountain is by Della Porta
(1591) and has a troubled history because it was
torn down and modified many times. Palazzo Cenci
was included in the Ghetto temporarily following
the expansion made necessary in 1836 under Gregory
XVI.
Piazza delle Cinque Scole
The
door bears the memory of the small building of the
Cinque Scole or Synagogues which arose in this spot
and which were demolished in 1910. One of the prohibitions
in the time of the Ghetto was that it was forbidden
to have more than one synagogue, apart from the
number of Jews and without considering the extreme
variety of origin (Catalan, Aragonese, Sicilian
and others). The difficulty was handled in part
by including in one building various different rooms
for the different groups.
Synagogue
Visible
from many parts of the city with its square cupola,
the Synagogue or Temple
as the Roman Jews love to call it, is architecturally
the recaptured citizenship of the community after
the shame of the Ghetto. The architects Armani and
Costa who built it were not Jews. The community
was still not able to have its own architects. It
was inaugurated in the greatest solemnity and devotion.
Even now it is frequented by practically all the
Roman Jews, even though there are at least five
other smaller Synagogues in the city in different
neighborhoods. The style is a mixture of "Liberty"
and Babylonian art, with evident reference to the
style of the time of construction and to the middle-eastern
origin of the Jewish religion. It has no pictures
or images, only symbols: the Menorah, the Tablets
of the Law, the Lulav. The many writings in Hebrew
are almost all verses of Scripture which exalt the
sacredness of the place. On the Tiber river side,
the Synagogue wall has different plaques of great
historical interest: there are long lists of the
Jews who were killed in the First World War, of
the Jews who were killed at the Fosse Ardeatine,
the numbers of the Shoà; they do not have
words of revenge, they invoke peace for all.
The
tour of the Ghetto can be ended here. Rarely is
it possible to find so many memories, so much pain
and so much hope contained in such a small space.
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